Hummingbird photography is addictive!! Stimulates your creativity, not only challenges you but takes you to great places, and hopefully rewards you with some great pics. Almost everyone likes Hummingbirds. They’re so small and fast moving, it’s hard to get a good look at them. When you show pictures of hummingbirds, people are impressed, because they can see all of the wonderful details. I thought it would be great to share how best to try and set up for hummingbirds so you can produce results you can be happy with.

So what does it take to capture a hummingbird in flight in detail? First and foremost HUMMINGBIRDS , mainly patience, and a little setup and lastly a feeder to attract them.

GEAR- any camera, lenses will depend on the working distance your birds will allow you, norm 8-10 ft, normally anywhere from 200-400mm. Dont need fast glass, ie. f2.8 as you are stopping down your glass from f-8 to f13 depending on exposure. I use my 300mm + 1.4TC on a tripod with gimbal head.

Flashes- Hummingbirds wings can beat up to 80 times per second, this produces their signature hum. To the naked eye and you camera—the wings are just a blur. One of the first questions I’m asked is what shutter speed I use to stop this super-fast movement. The real answer is that the motion is frozen with high speed electronic flash, not by a fast shutter speed on the camera.

You can photograph hummingbirds with a single flash mounted on your camera. But for great results I find using multiple flashes mounted off the camera. As to how many should you use? That depends on your style and resources. Three or four is a good starting number. I sometimes use five or six because, as you’ll see, you usually need separate strobes on the background. The good news is that you can use dependable but fairly inexpensive speedlights with no special features except built in slaves. Power output set manually is normally set between 1/16th 1/32 range. Multiple flashes will provide more even light and makes up for the lower output.

The lower output means shorter flash duration that freezes the action. The flashes will have to be very close about two to three feet from the feeder you can fine tune there output by then moving them closer or further away in order to get the proper exposure. Camera is as well set to manual, 1/250th of a second and f stop between f8-f13 depending on exposure. Some times I will use a light meter to meter the flash, but I get lazy and just use the histogram most of the time.

Depending on how bright it is outside, one usually needs to use a flash to light up the background otherwise your backgrounds are black as your flash is brighter than the ambient light, hence why you would want to use a flash to light up your background, foamcore, or hanging baskets. I usually use the latter as I can change them in and out to give me more interesting backgrounds.

Here are some important tips and behaviors………. I use auto focus since it helps locking focus quicker, I will usually pre-focus on the center of the feeder so there only has to be slight focus adjustments. Once they have found a feeder you can move it around since they know it was there and if they don’t find it in the exact same spot they will start looking for it. I have on many occassions removed their normal feeder only to replace it with a single spout feeder and put their regular feeder under the table on the deck, it didn’t take long and they where standing on the deck under the table feeding out of the feeder. Best time to take the picture is let them come in and feed, and they always pull out 4-7 inches and hover, click click and they go back in to feed. So only when they pull out. The flash does not bother them, but they the shutter noise gets there attn, my D2x is not exactly quiet!

What kind of feeder, well they seem to like those bright red feeders with the four flowers and the little perches but there not very good for picture taking as they will sit on the perches and you won’t get much of an opportunity for pictures. I remove the perches but then you will find they always use the spout that is farthest from you so next you can remove all the spouts except one and then tape them over so they won’t use them and you will always know where they will be They catch on very quickly so no worries. If I am looking for a natural perch shot, i will take a natural stick under the feeder as you will always have a dominant hummer protecting his feeder and loves to sit close to chase the others away.

I guess pictures would help now to see my actual set up……taken with my good ol nikon 2 mega pixel p&s

So once your set up, just get your little birdies to start posing for you. If I did not explain myself well or have further questions, just let me know. Hope someone found this helpful.

While most people is expecting the next FF body from Canon as replacement to Canon EOS 5D FF digital camera, Canon announced the 50D a year after the arrival of the EOS 40D. It incorporable the latest technologies and MP that is originally expected to be in the FF replacement body. Now, the new 50D looks like a replacement of the 5D except it is not with a FF sensor. The 50D comes with a lately design cropped sensor at 15MP with better performance in higher ISO ranging from 100-3200 and extendable upto 12800 (one-stop better than 5D?), DIGIC 4 image processor, better LCD, Live view and even the Face detection.

Canon’s Top Priority Move

It seems an interesting move, but I would consider this is a necessary move as response to Nikon’s recent hot cakes. Obviously, the D300 is a killer in the prosumer segment for its value - rich set features and performance. Canon’s top priority is to catch-up and try to retain the share in this market segment.

While I don’t think the 15MP 50D is attractive enough to call switches from existing Nikon users, it will be certainly one of the very first options in new purchasers’ short list.

Welcome Upgrade

50D would be a welcome upgrade for cropped bodies xxD users not only its higher pixels count but also better higher ISO performance means more options for using lower speed lenses and faster shutter speed.

Implications to Next FF Body?

Would Canon tell us, after the obsolete 5D, the only available choice for Canon FF body is the 1Ds series?

If there is one to be released soon, we are now expecting *LEAST* it would be equipped with a newly design FF sensor at *MUCH* better higher ISO performance, every new features in the 50D, and more ….

The release of 50D brought some further interesting thoughts of the next Canon’s FF body - are you expecting a 15MP FF body? (and additional 1-2 stops better higher ISO performance over the 50D) Probably not. How about a higher pixels count FF body at 2x MP? But that just leads to a direct competition with the existing 1Ds Mark III.

Oh…… my next FF Canon body? I would be very interested in a “smaller” version 1Ds Mark III at 2xMP, it may go just similar to the Nikon’s D3/ D700 arrangement.

Canon EOS 50D Features at a glance:

- 15.1 Megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor
- ISO 100-3200, expandable to 12800
- DIGIC 4 processor
- 9-point wide area AF
- 6.3fps continuous shooting, max. burst 90 JPEGs
- 3.0” Clear View VGA LCD with Live View mode & Face Detection Live AF
- EOS Integrated Cleaning System
- HDMI connection for high quality viewing and playback
- Magnesium alloy body, with environmental protection

What should we expect from a $3000 Sony Alpha 900? Can you imagine that is a 24.6 MP FF DSLR camera comes with some really impressive features and built quality? Just before that only the Canon 1Ds Mark III in the market offering 21MP resolution and asking more than double of the current price for a Sony Alpha 900.

Since Nikon released the D3, we have been focusing in the debates on higher ISO performance and pixel quality. The release of Sony Alpha 900 sets a new direction in the DSLR development - higher pixels inspiration. There are only very few people would have Sony Alpha 900 hand-on experience at the time being, based on some very limited image samples, Sony Alpha 900 is not particularly impressive in terms of image quality comparing with the Canon 1Ds Mark III, well, but it is a very usable camera!

There is no justified reason for heavily-invested Canon or Nikon system users go switch to the Sony Alpha 900. I also doubt professionals who requires 20+ MP would acquire the Sony Alpha 900 for their mission-critical work. The Sony Alpha 900 would be for royal users and new enthusiasts purchasers at this stage.

However, we should not over look the fact - Carl Zeiss 16-35mm F2.8 lens released together with Alpha 900 has special implications to Sony’s ambition. We will see some new Sony DSLR cameras in the future addressed for serious users and professional work. While the Sony Alpha 900 may not be a real challenge at the time being, it definitely starts a new competition, not only technologies breakthrough, but also the price tag and marketing implication given by Sony. We should appreciate Sony for the good job!

Sony Alpha 900 features at a glance:

* 24.6 MP 35mm format full-frame CMOS sensor (highest res in class)
* SteadyShot INSIDE full frame image sensor shift stabilization (world first)
* High Speed Dual Bionz processors
* Eye-level glass Penta-prism OVF, 100% coverage, 0.74x magnification
* 9 point AF with 10 assist points, center dual-cross AF w/2.8 sensor
* 5 frames per second burst, newly developed mirror box
* Intelligent Preview Function
* 3 User programmable custom memory modes on mode dial
* Advanced Dynamic Range Optimizer (5 step selectable)
* 40 segment honeycomb metering
* 3.0″ 921K pixel Photo Quality (270 dpi) LCD display, 100% coverage
* Direct HDMI output
* ISO 200-3200 (ISO 100-6400 expanded range)
* User interchangeable focusing screens (3 options)
* CF Type I/II and MS slots, LI-ION battery, STAMINA 880 shots
* Weight 850g (without battery, card, accs)
* New Image Data Converter SR software (includes vignetting control)
* New Vertical Grip
* Supplied with wireless remote control
* Magnesium Alloy body and rubber seals for dust and moisture resistance
* AF micro adjustment

Canon EOS EOS 450D User Experience I wanted to share my experience with the 450d after having it for one week. First of all, please note that I am an amateur at best and I never shoot raw and never use a tripod.

Last weekend I traded in my 400d for the 450d, actually got the 450d for free and a $100.00 credit, but that is another story.

I mostly shoot birds and primarily use the canon 70-300 IS lens, preferably with the IS turned off for sharper photos.

Since I got the 450, I have taken about 1000 shots, mostly of random objects. But I have had occasion to use the camera in good shooting conditions with good light.

My impression overall is positive. The pictures look better to me and I love the spot metering. When I say “better” I mean there is more color and more natural light in the photos. The pics do tend to overexpose considerably compared to the 400d. So if my subject is in direct sunlight, I turn the EV down 1/3rd.

I have also noticed that there is definitely less noise at higher ISOs. For instance, check out the chickadee in the link below. It was shot at 1600 ISO, with noise reduction turned off. I have done nothing to the photo except crop it, not a great photo, but not much noise at all in my opinion for being 1600 ISO.

http://natureshots.smugmug.com/gallery/6076038_WcFPo/1/381167597_zhyxq/Large

Interestingly, I have taken some photos with ISO 200 that seem to have as much noise as that 1600 ISO photo. I have noticed that it depends on the background…if the background is darker, especially green or blue, then there seems to be more noise than compared to a yellowish lighter background. But maybe that is a given; nonetheless, definitely something I have noticed.

Another thing about noise, I have noticed that there is less noise if I turn the camera’s sharpening settings down. I noticed that in “standard” mode there was more noise than in “portrait” mode. So I use portrait mode.

Also, the 450d focuses a good bit faster than the 400d did. The 400d seemed slow to me with the 70-300, but now the lens seems much faster and also quieter.

The 450d also processes the photos much much faster than the 400d. It writes and deletes pics much faster as well as takes them faster in continuous mode. I love this.

The kit lens is amazing compared the 400d’s, but that is pretty much a given. My favorite photos taken so far with the kit lens are in the 450d gallery below…they are the grass in the sunlight shots. The rest of the photos in the gallery were taken with the 70-300. The battery life is excellent, reminds me of the battery pack on the 400d.

I have also noticed that the resolution on the 450d is amazing. I notice this when I crop in on birds. It does seem to reveal a little bit more noise than the 400d in 100% crops, but I only notice the noise when I crop in extensively.

Anyways, the link below will take you to my favorite shots taken so far with the 450d. In them all, I had noise reduction turned off. I have done no sharpening at all in any of the photos. Nothing stellar, but I hope they show you what kind of jpegs a 450d can produce in an amateur’s hands with a non L-grade lens. I still have a lot of learning to do with the 450d, and I very much look forward to it all.

The first question many digital newcomers ask when scanning an image for computer use is: What DPI should the image be?

The answer these people usually get is: 72 DPI.

However, the correct answer is: It really doesn’t matter.

This can cause a lot of controversy, because many people — even ones who otherwise really know what they’re talking about — will insist that 72 DPI is the correct photo resolution for a computer screen. But it’s not.

I promise you: DPI is an overrated concept when it comes to images that are solely for use on a computer. If you plan to print your photo, or to send it for separation for use in a publication, then resolution is a critical detail. But if you intend to use an image only as decoration on your computer’s desktop, to post it on the Internet or to e-mail it to a friend, then you don’t even need to know what DPI is.

Look at the two photos below and try to guess the DPI value of each.

The answer: The photo on the left is 100 DPI. The photo on the right is 1 DPI. That’s not a typo; it is one DPI. Download it and see for yourself. The photos appear the same because: On a computer screen, DPI doesn’t matter.

Explanation

DPI is the abbreviation for “dots per inch.” But a monitor doesn’t know what an inch is, so how many dots are in one is irrelevant to the computer. All the monitor wants to know is the total number of dots — or pixels — that are in the image. A photo could be 5 inches wide at 100 DPI, or could be 10 inches wide at 50 DPI; either way the computer only cares that the photo is 500 pixels wide, so it can use 500 pixels to display it.

The size of an image on the monitor will then vary with how the monitor is configured. For example: Suppose you have a 17-inch monitor set to a resolution of 800X600. If you open a 400×300-pixel image, that image will take up one-quarter of the display. But if you set that same 17-inch monitor to a resolution of 1280×1024, then that same 400X300 image will fill only about one-tenth of the display. But the DPI value is never considered in these calculations, because, again: The only measurement a monitor cares about is pixel dimensions.

So the real question when scanning for the Web is: How many pixels wide and tall should I make the photo? The answer: It depends on your taste.

Just realize that the image will appear at different sizes on different computers, based on the size of the monitor and its resolution. So make it 500×500 pixels, or 50×50, or whatever you want. For my sites, I make horizontal images about 360 pixels wide, vertical images 240 pixels tall. I find that those sizes appear not too large on 800×600 monitor displays, but not too small for 1280×1024.

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